Those lucky enough to know the wonders of eating truffle will testify that this gift from the earth is indeed the ultimate aphrodisiac. One might even go so far as to say it is the ultimate food experience… period. Hard to believe this indulgence of legendary proportions starts with the truffle pig.
Unfortunately, as we all know, eating truffles is not a common experience. Unless, of course, you’re a wild sow in a grove of oak trees. What do I mean? I’ll get to the romance between truffle pigs and these fabulous fungi but first, let’s reflect on the magic that makes truffles so desirable.
The flavor of a fresh truffle is earthy, musty, and sexy, a multi-sensory experience involving sight, smell, taste, mouth feel, and something innately primitive, even, some say, arousing. This taste experience is so uniquely powerful that it challenge’s a writer’s ability to translate flavor and texture into words. It rocks us into orbit.
What is a truffle?
I should pause for a moment to clarify what a truffle really is, because “truffle” has two meanings. Most people think of a chocolate dessert called “truffle” when the term arises. That’s because they don’t know any better. Once you know the fungus truffle, you will be among a society of the lucky few. Of course, the dessert is very nice, as well. I mean who doesn’t like chocolate?
Don’t confuse it with a chocolate truffle
The dessert truffle is made from ganache, a mixture of heavy cream and chocolate. It is usually rolled in something else after it is chilled, such as cocoa powder, chopped nuts, or something sweet. Certainly, it’s a decadent bite for a sweet tooth.
But if you want a succulent, earthy taste, the other truffle is your goal. Unfortunately, it’s not easily attainable as mixing chocolate and cream. And at upwards of $600/pound, few can afford even a bite. But once you’ve tasted a truffle, there’s no going back.
Where do truffles come from?
Truffles are members of the edible fungus order Ascomycetous, and are mainly of the Tuber genus. In other words, truffles are related to mushrooms. Both are fungus. But truffles grow underground and, unlike mushrooms, come on one fairly standard shape.
The 2 main divisions of truffles are black and white truffles, coming historically from Perigord, France, and Alba, Italy, respectively. (However there are truffles that grow wild in other parts of the world, including North America.)
There is a fierce rivalry surrounding French and Italian truffles, as well as fierce debates concerning black and white truffles. Let it go. Both are great. However you might want to take a little extra consideration as to how you will serve truffles. According to some experts, the black truffle needs to be slightly cooked, while the white truffle is sliced and eaten paper thin in the raw.
These delectable underground fungi are not easily found. There are certain clues that only the savvy caveur (truffle hunter) knows.
So what does a truffle pig do?
To understand what truffle finding pigs do, you need to understand a little bit about how truffles grow. Truffles have a symbiotic relationship to certain tree roots, and the ground above the growing tubers can show a “scorched earth” appearance, referred to as terre brûlée in France. Secondly, small gnats or flies are often found around the area, apparently anxious to lay their larvae in a fertile food delta. Thirdly, although many humans rave about the earthy musky smell of truffles, our sense of smell is not keen enough to detect them growing underground.
The skill of a truffle hog
That’s why we need the chercheuse (“pursuer”), provided by a trained truffle pig or dog, whose sense of smell is a lot sharper than ours. (It is said that the pig’s sense of smell is even sharper than a dog’s.) Although their senses of smell need little to no honing, the pigs must be trained to walk on a leash before they can work as a truffle hunting pig.
These creatures, the truffle hunting pigs, are of great value in France. Food writer Elatia Harris brings the point home with the story of a Frenchman sentenced to 45 years in prison for stealing two truffle hunting pigs in 1985. No one protested. To the French, the punishment was considered quite fitting.
Also driving home this point is the 2021 Nicholas Cage film, Pig about the lengths a farmer will go to in trying to retrieve his stolen truffle hog.
Pigs finding truffles is a tradition dating back to Roman times. Today truffle hounds are also trained in the pursuit of these coveted fungus. Many modern truffle hunters have deemed truffle dogs easier to handle. But the tradition of truffle hunting began with hogs, so truffles and pigs will be forever linked. And there just might be another reason the pig is the superior hunter when it comes to sniffing out truffles.
Do truffle sniffing pigs get turned on by the smell of truffles?
Anyone who has savored a truffle can attest to its aphrodisiac effect. But there is also some objective scientific evidence to lend support that truffles can drive you wild. In Harold McGee’s book On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, we learn that truffles contain androstenol, a pheromone found in men’s underarm sweat, (be still my beating heart). This chemical is also found in the saliva of the male pig, which prompts mating behavior in the sow. Suuuuueeeeyyyy! I rest my case.
So, some time before you die, you must find a way to taste a truffle. You will thank me for this. Below are some suggestions for retailers who carry truffle products. You can stretch your truffle tasting further by using them to flavor an oil, butter or salt. A little truffle goes a long way.
Where to buy truffles
If you live in Tuscany or even the west coast of the United States, you might be lucky enough to find truffles for sale at your local farmer’s market in season. And if you live in the right conditions, you might just have truffles growing on your own property! (Check under your oak trees.) But for those of us who aren’t lucky enough to own truffle pigs, here are some resources to buy truffles online:
Pig photo by Annie Spratt
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