amy’s guide to modern absinthe with tasting notes

by amy reiley   Mata Hari One of the most subtle and refined absinthes I’ve tasted, Mata Hari can easily be enjoyed on its own without the addition of sugar – or even water! Aromas are of uncooked brownie dough mixed with cinnamon. (You read that correctly). When louched, it barely turns cloudy and the complex array of fruity and nutty flavors finish with a hot cinnamon kick.

Kubler
Probably my favorite of the absinthes I tasted for this feature, Kubler is one of the Swiss La Bleue absinthes. Pale aqua in color, it is also one of the prettiest absinthes in the tasting. Slightly sweet on its own, it needs no sugar. (It, like the Mata Hari, is without the bitter licorice notes so prominent in the most widely available brands). And while the alcohol is strong enough to give you what I like to call the “tequila goosebumps,” there is no harshness on the palate.

Pernod
This is one of the “weedier” absinthes in the tasting, full of herbal aromatics and flavors. Offering no perceptible sweetness on its own, it is one of the absinthes in the tasting best suited for louching. However, you should be warned that, once louched, it turns an alarmingly fluorescent green.

Versinthe
One of my least favorite absinthes in the tasting, Versinthe is one of the more medicinal absinthes on the market. Its flavors are a combination of anise and Mylanta, (although my parents, who remember Immodium’s predecessor insist that it much more closely resembles Paregoric).

Versinthe Blanche
Strangely, while I found Versinthe barely palatable, I think the Versinthe Blanche is one of the more attractive absinthes on the market. It has that bitter bite so common among the more harsh absinthes, but here the bitterness merely lends to the complexity rather than overshadowing the sweeter, fruitier flavors. With a refreshing hint of licorice, it makes a refreshing after dinner drink.

Grande Absente
I am happy to report that Grande Absente is far more attractive than its appearance makes it seem. (Its color bears a striking resemblance to hydraulic fluid). It is one of the more intense absinthes, with a straightforward licorice flavor and a hint of sweetness. I prefer it without sugar, finding the drink’s natural sweetness to strike just the right balance.

Le Tourment Vert
It did not surprise me to learn that this absinthe was created for blending in cocktails. Its up front licorice and floral notes combine with its perceptible sweetness, it is more suited to blending into interesting drinks than it is for sipping on its own. Its color, not dissimilar to Aqua Velva, is disarming at first, but makes for rather pretty mixed drinks!

Unidentifiable Bootleg Bottling
I threw this one in just for fun. My father brought it back from the Soviet Union back in the day when there was a U.S.S.R. Clear in the bottle, it turns a beautiful pearlescent blue when louched. Who the hell knows the proof on this stuff. Its licorice flavor is light and slightly sweet, but with this kind of kick, who can really remember the taste?