Resolution
#1
To drink a favorite white wine with red meat
If Chardonnay is the flavor you like, the story
that a magical transformation will take place if you
drink a heavier wine with your red meat isn't going
to happen. But if you love steak and you love Chardonnay,
the combination will be delightful, declares
Master of Wine Tim Hanni. The creator of Winequest
Solutions, a company working to help boost staff confidence
and, subsequently wine sales, for such major beverage
retailers as P.F. Chang restaurants and Ritz Carlton
hotels, Hanni has dedicated much of his career to
examining the traditional notions of food and wine
pairing within the context of food science. I am a
great fan of Hanni, a bit of a rogue in this very
traditional business. From him I've learned the true
secret to food and wine pairing: with a balance of
salt and acidity, nearly every flavor combination
makes a match.
Asking Hanni for his New Year's message, the answer
came without a breath of hesitation. Perhaps the only
Master of Wine in the world to encourage wine lovers
to select their drink independent of the menu, Hanni's
call to action in the New Year is to make it your
goal to always drink the wines you love no matter
the contents of your plate, even if your favorites
are Chardonnay and a thick, aged prime cut.
Chardonnay to delight:
2001 Patz & Hall Hyde Vineyard, California $48
2001 Pierro, Australia $40
2001 Keller Sonoma Coast La Cruz Vineyard, California
$28
2001 Neil Ellis Elgin, South Africa $19
Resolution #2
To relish Rosé
Across the U.S., blush-hued wine is sadly misunderstood.
Dry Rosé is a world apart from the White Zinfandel
most Americans assume fill all bottles glowing from
a rosy pink tinge; it can be a bright, fresh, full-bodied
and even sophisticated style. Like White Zinfandel,
Rosés are generally made from a red grape,
the juice removed from skin contact immediately after
pressing but unlike White Zin, these wines are fermented
to a thirst quenching, bone-dry state.
In Mediterranean cultures, whose cuisines are so admired
in modern, American gastronomy, Rosé wines
are as much a part of life as lingering lunch hours,
fresh-caught seafood and sun-kissed picnics on dry
summer days. In the Cotes du Rhone, Navarra and Catalonia,
Rosé wines are made with the same care any
great Bordeaux chateaux would pay to its Cabernet.
Comments Master Sommelier Ken Fredrickson, whose Nevada
Wine Agents is noted for importing several elegant
Rosés, Dry Rosé has great versatility.
It's a style typically more full bodied than whites
without being heavy and tannic. Rosé can be
as easily enjoyed at an afternoon picnic as a formal
Holiday dinner.
In recent years, a bold handful of unabashed American
vintners, whose tastes clearly run toward European
tradition, have begun producing delightful domestic
blushes and, with their efforts, Rosé has become
slightly easier to spot. At Unti, we live vicariously
in Provence through our Rosé, comments
Mick Unti who produces a Rosé in California's
Dry Creek Valley. But despite the efforts of Unti
and his American counterparts, Rosé is not
yet regarded with a reputation as the commonplace,
quaffable treat that it deserves. The next time you
dine in with a Mediterranean menu, try sipping Rosé.
Don't shy away from taking a bottle as a host gift
when you dine with friends. Inexpensive, ready to
drink early and neither heavy nor light, it is a style
I have found time and again to surprise and delight
every guest at my table.
Refreshing Rosés:
2001 Domaines Ott Bandol, France $28
2002 Unti Grenache Rosé, California $12
2002 Scherrer Vin Gris, California $15
2002 Domaine de la Mordoree Tavel, France $17
Resolution #3
To drink Champagne with dinner
Why is champagne reserved in this country strictly
for holidays and celebrations? It is a question I
often pose in gatherings of wine lovers who share
my craving for delicately effervescent drinks. My
favorite response may have been that of Gabriele Bambini,
whose Sunday Brunch Champagne and Mimosa Bar at the
Ritz Carlton Lake Las Vegas helps to make sparkling
wine commonplace at the Sunday morning buffet. Twisting
his generous mouth into the sort of pout only Southern
Europeans can produce, he simply purred with his Italian
vowels the most famous of Champagne industry anecdotes,
When Madame Lily Bollinger, (the proprietess
responsible for the prosperity of the legendary Champagne
house of Bollinger), was asked when to drink champagne,
she replied that she drank it when she's sad
and
happy. She drank it to pick herself up when she was
tired and opened a bottle with friends when she wanted
to celebrate. But other than that, she never really
touched it - except when she was thirsty.
When you're happy
or sad:
NV Taittinger La Francaise $30
NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose $50
1990 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill $150
NV Henri Billiot Brut Champagne Reserve $37
Resolution #4
To drink without guilt
The consensus on wine, its health benefits and drawbacks,
changes every day. For those of us bogged down by
mixed messages, Dr. Murray Susser of Los Angeles'
Longevity Medical Center a noted leader in the fight
against aging offers this advice, I don't think
its good to have anything every night, except maybe
sex. There are definite benefits and drawbacks to
wine, but the amount you drink - whether its half
a bottle a day or two glasses per week - is dependent
on your individual response.
According to Dr. Justin Ardill, cardiologist and proprietor
of Reilly's wines in Australia's famed Clare Valley,
wine is proven to slow down, and, optimally prevent
heart disease. Red wines, particularly Pinot Noirs,
offer additional antioxidant benefits from prolonged
contact with the grape skins and seeds. But a glass
of red grape juice will not replicate the benefits.
It is, according to Dr. Ardill, the antiplatelet effect
of wine that makes an impact on heart heath. Alcohol
has also been credited with increasing the good cholesterol
in the blood, adds Ardill. But whether or not
you decide the benefits outweigh the drawbacks, when
you do choose to drink, don't do it with even a trace
of guilt. If you only make one resolution, let it
be to always uncork something special and savor every
drop.
Pinot Noirs to toast good health:
2001 Gary Farrell Russian River Valley, California
$28
2001 Sineann Reed & Reynolds Vineyard, Oregon
$30
2001 Pipers Brook The Lyre, Australia $50
2000 Louis Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin, France $95