|
|
Subscribe to
our
FREE food & wine newsletter
|
|
|
|
eat and
tell
Gelato
Giornale
After over
a year of thesis writing - sorry to be away from my readers for so long
- I decided to celebrate the end of my self-imposed solitary
confinement with a trip to Italy – the land of sensuality,
romance, and ecstatic worship of great food. Though I enjoyed many
wonderful meals and sinful treats as I nibbled my way through Rome
and Florence, I’ll begin the
menu of essays about my adventures with the best part of the meal
– dessert! |
Like
sexy men with penetrating eyes and perfectly coiffed bed head, gelato
shops appear at every turn in Italian cities. On crystal blue spring
days it seems that everyone is lingering in the streets, licking
sensually at the creamy cold confection – the Italians seem
to have the market on lingering sensually over any number of yummy
street foods!
Gelato making is an art form in Italy and gelaterias often
resemble galleries in homage to the frozen fantasy. Even a humble
neighborhood shop makes great effort to elaborately garnish the
sculpted colorful mounds with fruits, nuts, and candies. The serious
artisanal shops are softly lit rich wood paneled rooms with marble
floors and elaborate display cases of polished brass manned by charming
Italians ready to satisfy your every need (now, now ladies and gents
– I’m talking gelato here!)
The last two times I was in Italy I was sorely gelato deprived, so this
trip I vowed to indulge at least once each day. I’m happy to
report that I was successful in this endeavor! I avoided the chain
shops and disappointing gelato experiences by watching for Armani-clad
businessmen with fresh cones and choosing places where Italian was
still the language of choice. This was easier done in Rome than in
Florence – something to do with the Italian to tourist ratio,
perhaps?
Of the seven gelaterias I visited, two of the top three were in Rome,
including the one place that I became so enamored with that I returned
at least three times (twice in one day!) Here is my best of the best:
1. Della Palma Gelato di Roma Via della
Maddalena 20, Rome, Italy 00186 near the Pantheon - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNSv7MCLjdY
(Rome): I’m not the only person who thinks this is the best
gelato in Rome, or anywhere else for that matter, but their success has
not gone to their heads – though some of it has gone to my
thighs! The selection and the quality are extraordinary. Aphrodisiac
flavors abound here, which may explain the near-pornographic
gelato-induced audio/visuals along the narrow streets surrounding the
place! In the corner of the display case you will find about a dozen
deep, dark chocolate flavors including my favorite one with
pepperoncini (spicy red chiles). For those who prefer sorbetto, try
fichi (figs with or without ricotta) or fruta di bosca (wild berries).
2. Gelateria Santa Trinita at Lungarno
Guicciardini and Piazza Frescobaldi (Florence): The gelateria in
Florence that was so highly recommended was a disappointment and many
others were the Italian equivalent of Baskin-Robbins. So I wandered
slightly off the beaten path on the “other side” of
the Arno and found this chic little boutique serving hand crafted silky
accessories of the sweet frozen variety to ultra-fashionable locals. I
tried a Sicilian cassata gelato that was bejeweled with perfectly cut
brunoise (for non-chefs, that’s very small cubes) of
seemingly homemade candied fruits in the softest pastel colors embedded
in velvety smooth ricotta-scented gelato. A scoop of that and one of
pear gelato with a sexy swirl of grappa-soaked pear gelee made for a
perfect early evening diversion.
3. Name Unknown at via Serpenti near
Panisperna (Subura): This place is a small neighborhood joint that
serves a lot more locals than tourists. It’s off the beaten
path in the ancient neighborhood that has been known for thousands of
years as the Subura. It’s on one of the oldest streets in all
of Rome and just a couple of blocks from the perfect little hotel I
stayed in http://www.hotelartoriusrome.com.
I don’t know if this place is worth a detour, but I can say
that if you are in the neighborhood, the gelato is wonderful and the
staff is friendly, and there is a small piazza nearby with a fountain
and some benches where you can admire the trendy Roman ragazzi
(translation: young hotties!) while practicing licking and lingering
like an Italian!
return to eat and tell index
|
|
