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annette tomei

 

eat and tell: catching up

with chef annette tomei

Before I get started, I thought it would be nice to catch up (it's been so long!). Besides, I promised an update on the wedding of my dear friend Bride to Be. Though that riotously fun Labor Day weekend in Newport when BTB became Mrs. G under the watchful eye of Hurricane Ernesto is deserving of more commentary, I have more ground to cover… the Newport eating, drinking, and dancing extravaganza will, sadly, have to wait.


Also in the wings for future sharing, a number of truly great New York City neighborhood days… entire days spent grazing and shopping through my favorite NYC places (the Village - from west to east, and the Lower East Side). These days warrant their own "Eat and Tell" space and are in the works as I write this.

 

Back in the present…


Enjoying a fabulous bottle of 2001 Beringer Knights Valley Cab… Yes, am indulging alone with my laptop, some great Manchego cheese, and the Beastie Boys (It's been one of those days)!


Wine Notes - full, supple, rich, luscious - A playful pillow fight on a huge bed of deep red velvet and satin. Goes great with the cheese, and even with the Beasties' classics. Not your everyday wine… but you only live once! That's what diva-hood is all about.
Like to celebrate eating experiences every day but for sake of time, (yours and mine), I highlight:


Junk Food…


To ring in the season of non-stop holiday eating that begins with Halloween candy and ends with a monstrous January hangover and resolutions of high-fiber, fat & alcohol-free gym days, I started at the NYU Nutrition and Food Studies department - an unlikely place that only became more bizarre as the evening continued.


The Culinary Historians of New York get together monthly for discussions of various food and drink related subjects… food and drink are de rigueur. October's theme was "Junk Food" featuring Andrew Smith's Encyclopedia of Junk Food and Fast Food (this is serious stuff here). So, there I was in a room full of academic-types (and some well-known foodies), awaiting a somewhat serious discussion on a controversial topic. Then the food was served…


Menu
cheese puffs, Fritos, and potato chips
pyramids of baby Oreos
vases of Twizzlers
baskets of Snickers
an artfully arranged platter of quartered Hostess Cupcakes
(classic chocolate & the orange ones!)
silver trays of White Castle Hamburgers
(and cheese burgers)
and my personal favorite… Twinkie Sushi!
(unofficial recipe to follow)
all served with choice of Budweiser or
Pepsi Jazz Strawberries and Cream soda


Next Stop, Buffalo…


OK, time to admit it… I'm from Buffalo (small cringe). (Really, it's not such a bad place to be from… could be worse.) Most only know of Buffalo's wild winters… only those who've seen beyond the white out conditions know of its junk food treasures. The good folk of Buffalo take their junk food seriously. Even foodie purists can't deny the long-established heritage of locally produced foods served for generations in family owned and operated havens for serious craving busters.


Thanksgiving: First holiday with family in Buffalo in over 15 years. Went with sister and brave brother-in-law to show off Thalia the Beautiful to the rest of the family. Had classic dinner (sans foodie magazine recipes that is) and fabulous flashbacks of a 70's childhood. I am truly grateful for it all.


With only two days to catch up on years of serious junk food deprivation, we made a noble effort!. Now I may need another 15 years before I can eat another chicken wing! But, mmm… it was sooo good!


Reasons to Eat in Buffalo:

1. This is the home of Frank and Theresa's Buffalo Wings - now an international phenomenon
2. Potato chips with Bison chip dip (unlike any other - the only reason I would eat chips in such quantity
3. Pizza that surpasses NYC (don't tell my neighbors in Brooklyn!) featuring locally made pepperoni and mozzarella
4. Ted's Red Hots (grilled hot dogs with a tantalizing secret chile sauce that's not to be missed)
5. Kosta's open-faced chicken souvlaki (unlike any other)
6. John and Mary's Submarines (my dad grew up on these and still reminisces about them)
7. Last but not least dessert, -- Anderson's frozen custard - a frozen version of the most decadent velvety oral orgasm you could wish for! (No, I'm not exaggerating!)


Redemption: Four Stars for Four Friends at the Four Seasons…


First, a huge thank you to my extremely generous friends for a night out that I won't soon (if ever) forget! After two days of Thanksgiving fare and serious junk food, returned to NYC just in time to join The Gastronomers for dinner at none other than the new l'Atelier de Joel Robuchon at the NYC Four Seasons. This is Monsieur Robuchon's newest addition to his crown of stars and first venture in New York.


One friend's magical powers of well-placed generosity earned a collected favor in the form of a reservation for four at 8:00 on a Saturday night. Even scored the much-prized corner seats at the dining bar… a view of NYC as our backdrop and the polished black and red kitchen in the foreground. A perfect stage for the flavor explosion that followed.
This place is known for its tasting menu (for the mere sum of a month's car payment) but you can create your own experience from the extensive list of Small Tasting Portions (enough for 4 tastes from one plate). With more interest in sensual pleasures than filling our bellies, we opted for sharing a few select tantalizing teasers (and all the desserts!). Will leave you for now with this…


Amuse Bouche: Foie Gras Parfait (earthy parmesan foam, honey-like port reduction, foie mousse)


First Course: Le Crabe (avocado, crabmeat, almond oil, hidden tingles of something spicy)


Le Homard (buttery lobster "ravioli" - paper-thin turnip slices as the pasta)
L'Oeuf (a coddled egg in a martini glass of haunting mushroom and sorrel foams)
La Langoustine (little crustaceans blanketed in pastry paper with basil pesto)


Second Course: Le Foie Gras (terrine of cherry wood-smoked foie gras & caramelized eel with droplets of creaminess and powdery lines of a lemony herb - almost as addictive
as other powdery lines)
Les Cuisses de Grenouille (crispy frogs' legs with roasted garlic & parsley purees)
Le Burger (two tiny foie gras hamburgers with a mini-mug of hand cut crinkle fries
and tangy homemade ketchup - precious, drippy, and so tasty)
La Caille (half a roast quail stuffed with foie gras and truffles)
Le Bar (delicate pan seared bass with baby leeks and airy lemongrass foam)


Dessert: Amuse: coconut "ravioli" in spice gelée with lemon balm mascarpone
(the wonders of Feran Adria and science suspended a marble of coconut milk in
a spice-flecked clear gelée over a rich layer of lemony cream)
Le Sucre (almost defies explanation… a deep red blown sugar orb filled with
berries and custard, served with vanilla ice cream perfected - I'm speechless!)
Le Marron (chocolate, chestnuts, dates, and condensed milk ice cream… mmm!)
Le Pamplemousse (Grapefruitiness! Wine gelée, essence of mint sorbet… wow!)
Le Baba (cake, rum, thyme, caramelized pineapple, caramel ice cream… swoon!)

Annette's Twinkie Sushi Recipe


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